CROATIA

GETTING AROUND
Trains are of limited value in a country with such a small rail network, although they do connect Zagreb with the coastal towns of Rijeka and Split. Elsewhere, Croatia is well served by an extensive and reliable bus network. Ferries offer a leisurely way of getting up and down the coast, and provide the only transport to Croatia's many Adriatic islands.

Driving and hitching
The road system is comprehensive, but not always of good quality once you get beyond the main highways. Stretches of the Zagreb-Rijeka and Zagreb-Split routes are classified as motorway (autoput) and are subject to a modest toll, although elsewhere the main routes (especially the main road down the Adriatic coast) are single-lane roads, often clogged by traffic - especially in summer, when movement up and down the coast can be time-consuming. Off the beaten track, roads can be badly maintained. Speed limits in Croatia are 60kph in built-up areas, 80kph on normal roads, 100kph on highways and 120kph on motorways. If you break down, the Croatian automobile club (HAK) has a 24-hour emergency service (tel 987). Car rental charges are expensive at around L75/$120 a day for a reliable car with unlimited mileage. Hitching on the main routes between Zagreb and the coast is fairly common - but be prepared to wait a long time for a lift. Anywhere else in the country, prospects for hitching are fairly bad.

Ferries
Jadrolinija operate ferry services down the coast on the Rijeka-Zadar-Split-Korcula-Dubrovnik route at least once a day in both directions between June and August, and four or five times weekly for the rest of the year. Rijeka to Dubrovnik is a 22-hour journey, involving one night on the boat. In addition, ferries link Split with the islands of Brac, Hvar and Korcula; there is also a Dobrovnik-Korcula service. Ferries are also a good way of moving on from Croatia, with connections to Italy (Split to Ancona and Dubrovnik to Bari) and Greece (Dubrovnik to Igoumenitsa). Prices (always quoted in dollars, but payable in kuna) are reasonable for short trips: for example, Split to Hvar costs around $4. For longer journeys, prices vary greatly according to the level of comfort you require. The cheapest Rijeka-Dubrovnik fare is $20, while you'll pay double that for a couchette-style bunk bed, and three times more for a bed in a well-appointed cabin; taking a car on the same journey costs an extra $75, $25 for a motorbike, but bicycles travel free of charge. Book in advance for longer journeys wherever possible; addresses and phone numbers are provided in the text where relevant.

Trains and buses
Croatian railways (Hrvatske eljeznice) run a smooth and efficient service. Trains (vlak, plural vlakovi) are divided into putnibki (slow ones which stop at every halt) and IC (inter-city trains which are faster and more expensive). There's an overnight service from Zagreb to Split, for which places in couchettes (kuzet) and sleeping cars (spalnica) are best made in advance. Timetables (vozni red) are usually displayed on boards in stations - odlazak means departure, dolazak means arrival. Croatia's bus network is run by a confusing array of small local companies, but services are well integrated and bus stations tend to be well-organized affairs with clearly listed departure times and efficient booking facilities. If you're at a big city bus station, tickets (karta) must be obtained from ticket windows before boarding the bus. Elsewhere, they can be bought from the driver. It's a good idea to buy tickets well in advance in summer if you can, especially for any services running to, or along, the coast. You'll be charged extra for cumbersome items of baggage, which must be stored in the hold.

Information and maps
Most towns of any size have a tourist office (turistibki ured) run by the local authority, who will happily give out brochures and local maps if they have any available; English is widely spoken in these places. Many offices will also book private rooms, or at least direct you to an agency that does. Freytag & Berndt produce a good 1:600,000 map of Croatia, Slovenia and Bosnia-Hercegovina; as well as a 1:100,000 map of Istria. Generalkarte produce a 1:200,000 map of the Adriatic coast

Communications
Most post offices (pozta or HPT) are open Monday to Friday 7.30am-7pm & Saturday 8am-1pm. In big towns and resorts, some offices are open daily, sometimes until 10pm. Stamps (marke) can also be bought at newsstands. Public telephones use magnetic cards (telekarta), which you can pick up from post offices or newspaper kiosks. When making long-distance and international calls, it's usually easier to go to the post office, where you're assigned a cabin and given the bill afterwards.

Emergencies
The crime rate in Croatia is low by European standards. Croatian police (policija) are generally helpful when dealing with holidaymakers, although can be slow when filling out reports. Police often make routine checks on identity cards and other documents; always carry your passport. Hospital treatment is free to EU citizens. Pharmacies (ljekarna) tend to follow normal shopping hours, and a rota system covers night-time and weekend opening; details are posted in the window of each pharmacy. You're unlikely to see too many reminders of the recent war during your travels round Croatia. Apart from Dubrovnik, which was heavily shelled by Serb and Montenegrin troops in 1991 and 1992, none of the places featured in this chapter were part of a war zone. Most of the fighting took place in areas well away from the tourist spots - and it's currently safe to travel anywhere in the country.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS
Police tel 92; Ambulance tel 94; Fire tel 93

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